We arrived in Istanbul late on Sunday and had to take a bus into the city. Our guide for the week met us on our bus and showed us a few sights as we drove in. Istanbul is so incredible by night, we drove through the city walls, passed the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque before arriving at our hotel in the center of the old section of the city. After settling in we took the train to the new section of the city, across the water, and up the huge hill to Taksim Square for dinner. We had a delicious 4 course, traditional Turkish meal complete with Turkish apple tea, and promptly went back to the hotel to fall asleep, I was so exhausted and full.
We woke up Monday morning and went to our first academic visit. We spoke with members of an organization who help immigrants, especially non-Muslim immigrants get assistance with their transition. People who are attempting to seek asylum in Turkey are not allowed to stay there if they are granted it, they must be taken to Australia, Canada or the US. So this group of people essentially help asylum seekers "get by" until they leave again. After that we had time on our own to wander around the pedestrian street and grab lunch. After lunch we headed to a campus of Bilgi University to have a lecture by Ayhan Kaya about issues surrounding Turkey joining the European Union, more specifically minority issues in Turkey. The issues surrounding the Kurds, Greeks and Armenians are unfortunate, however from our visits it sounds like Turkey is making some sort of effort to begin to include minorities despite the huge hurdles put in place in the past.
For dinner we had time on our own, however we had the option to meet with a group of young Armenian students who host the first radio station able to broadcast in Turkey in many language other then Turkey. We were able to discuss this radio station as well as some issues they have faced over tea. Then we all went out together to get dinner.
Tuesday morning we woke up and went to the Hagia Sophia! Originally built 1500 years ago as a church, then turned into a mosque and now used as a museum. This amazing building is not only huge but has one of the biggest domes in the world. I first learned about Istanbul and the Hagia Sophia in 11th grade and it certainly did not disappoint.
The insides were once covered with gold mosaic pieces, and there were many Christian mosaic portraits that were being uncovered after Muslims covered them up with plaster when it was turned into a Mosque. They also left the Muslim parts to the former Mosque so there is this interesting overlap of Muslim and Christian religion that is only visible in the Hagia Sophia.
After this we visited a Greek school home to only 50 students from 6th to 12th grades. It is very sad that the student population is shrinking due to Turkish oppression, but nonetheless the Head Master of the school was very nice and welcoming. We got a brief overview of the schools history and also a tour.
The rest of the afternoon we had on our own was spent at the Grand Bazar! Kind of over rated, but also huge, Maren and I walked around the winding streets for hours buying a few souvenirs and utilizing our bargaining skills. We were also yelled at in about 7 different languages as we wandered through the bazar ignoring all of the shop keepers enticing us into their shops in every language they knew.
The evening concluded in a restaurant on top of a hotel overlooking the entire city. Istanbul is such an incredible place at night. All the Mosques are lit creating a beautiful skyline. We had a short lecture by a Danish journalist who focuses on Turkish issues. Once again ate such a great meal I went home and fell asleep full and happy.
Wednesday was a very academic day. We spend the first half of the day at an office of a publisher called TESEV, who focuses on publishing information on Minority issues. After the lecture we went to lunch all together at a restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus. It was such an amazing day, and I am pretty sure the fish I ate had been caught about 10 minutes before it was grilled for me. Then we took a trip to the Egyptian Spice Bazar, which is a much smaller (better) version of the Grand Bazar. In order to fund a Mosque, bazars are built next to them so this Bazar was right next to a mosque as well. (The Grand Bazar funds the Blue Mosque). Finally we had to go over to a university and had a round table discussion with Turkish students about current issues. After our discussion we all went out to dinner together as well.
Unfortunately, My bed at the hotel was unbelievably hard and our room was really really hot, so we were left to leave the window open most night, which really sucks at about 4 am when the call to prayer is announced. Needless to say I felt the need to treat myself a little so Thursday not only did we visit the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace, but I also spent a solid 2 hours at a Turkish Hammam or bath. After a good scrub and massage with my friend Ariel we headed to the Asian side of Istanbul, just to say we did.
Our final group dinner was at this amazing restaurant, once again overlooking the entire city. After another 4 course meal, our restaurant was turned into a mini night club and my entire class had a big dance party. Even my teacher joined in on the dance floor a few times. Me and a few friends had our last walk through the city on the way home (in the rain...) and I finally got a good nights sleep.
Friday morning we had a wrap up session and headed to the airport to go back to reality :(
Istanbul was an amazing city!
In other Copenhagen news, its still just as cold as it felt when I first arrived in January, I am almost half way through the program. Terry is here!!! And a bunch of us are headed to Amsterdam next weekend!!! I am sure to do a lot of sight seeing this week in an attempt to show Terry all the best parts of Copenhagen.
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